The TUDOR Black Bay 58 Goes All Gold

Make way for the first-ever 18ct gold TUDOR Black Bay 58 with a solid gold bracelet

Blurring The Dive Watch and Dress Watch Lines

The Black Bay 58 by TUDOR in gold is not a new concept. Released back in 2021, it was offered on a brown or green & gold leather band. At first, the material may seem like an unusual choice, seen as dive watches are seldom offered in gold for practical purposes. Most people, when searching for a robust dive watch, look for materials that can offer strength and robustness under the extreme conditions often experienced underwater. Steel and bronze, for example, are common choices. But over the past decade or so, the demand for dive watches has grown, and not just for purposes of diving alone. More and more people are wearing dive watches because they just love their iconic look, especially those that impart a neo-vintage aesthetic like the TUDOR Black Bay 58. The lines between a dive watch and a statement piece are well and truly blurred, meaning that really, a dive watch can be worn however, whenever and whichever way you want.

All Gold

When the original 18ct gold version was initially released, the only concern from TUDOR fans was the absence of a bracelet option. The release of the new TUDOR Black Bay 58 18K watch answers that need. The 18ct yellow gold bracelet looks and feels incredibly solid. It appears eye-catching without being flashy and gaudy. To experience the new release in the metal, you need to get a feel for this watch on the wrist, because here’s the thing - this bracelet isn’t developed in the same way as those featured in the S&G models. With those iterations, the stainless steel bracelet featured a thread of gold running through the middle of the watch. To achieve this look, the manufacturer applied a thin veneer of gold to a central steel core. This new TUDOR Black Bay 58 18K watch, however, is solid 18ct yellow gold all the way. The same goes for the case, the crown, the bracelet lines and the bezel.

Beauty In the Finer Details

Interestingly, the way that TUDOR steers away from creating an overly lavish piece of jewellery is by applying a brushed or blasted finish to all the facets of the exterior. Once you’ve seen the finish and execution of this watch in the flesh, there is no mistaking it with anything else. The watch has a unique and alluring patina. A polished bevel is chosen for the lugs, as well as some of the teeth on the TUDOR logo-emblazoned crown. The satin-type finishes that enrobe this TUDOR Black Bay 58 18K watch give the timepiece an almost bronze-like effect. One of the best features of this watch, by far, is its eye-catching green ceramic bezel inlay. Over the past few years, we’ve seen several industry-leading brands experiment with green and gold. The outcome is always stunning. For me, you cannot go wrong with the lustrous warm shades of yellow gold and the earthy green hues seen in this beautiful green diver’s bezel. When I say diver’s bezel - I refer to the component’s innovative use as a measuring scale. The unidirectional rotating bezel can be aligned with the minute hand to measure time spent underwater. The 60-minute dive scale atop the bezel is executed in golden numerals to keep in line with the case, while the green of the bezel is perfectly matched to the dial.

The Actual Details

The new TUDOR Black Bay 58 watch measures a neat 39mm diameter and sits on a slender wrist very well indeed. This is a great option for those who struggle with the heftiness of the dive tool “look”. It also sits at a depth of 12.7mm in height, mirroring the proportions of the original Black Bay 58 18K watch. The model’s 200-meter water-resistant capability is upheld by the use of a screw-down crown, which features the TUDOR rose emblem upon its surface. The top of the case is also equipped with a sapphire crystal glass front, offering superb scratch resistance and anti-reflective properties. The solid gold bracelet measuring a lug width of 20mm is accompanied by TUDOR’S innovative T-Fit clasp, offering 8mm of adjustment flexibility.

Inside the new TUDOR Black Bay 58 18K gold and green watch is the Manufacture Calibre MT5400. This is a reworked movement that is certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), guaranteeing superior accuracy compared to standard non-certified self-winding movements. This is, for all intents and purposes, a weekend watch, meaning that if you were to take the watch off on a Friday evening and return to it on a Monday morning, you’d find it had kept perfect accuracy whilst away from the wrist. This is thanks to its power reserve potential of 70 hours once fully wound. But then again – why would you want to? Furthermore, the watch is displayed through an exhibition caseback crafted from sapphire crystal glass. It provides a clear and exclusive glimpse into the movement as it performs at 28 800 vibrations per hour. 

For many an enthusiast, the new TUDOR Black Bay 58 18K watch offers all the much-loved features of the popular Black Bay 58 series. The iconic “Snowflake” hands are present, which have been a part of the brand’s dive watch legacy since the 1960s. They stand out with prominence against that rich mossy green dial. The mix of circular and rectangular hour markers are also present and, along with the hands, have all been treated with lashings of Super-LumiNova for sufficient legibility in the dark. It matters not whether you intend to take this watch underwater or not, the dive watch aesthetics, blended with this striking combination of materials and colour, make for a particularly appealing collectable.

If you’d like more information on the new TUDOR Black Bay 58 18K watch, released this year at Geneva’s Watches & Wonders 2024 event, you can call and speak to a member of our Jura Watches sales team on 01335 453453. Alternatively, you can email us a question at help@jurawatches.co.uk.