A Beginner’s Guide to the Mechanical Watch

The mechanical watch dates back centuries, but surprisingly, it has always felt very relevant in the watch-collecting world. Despite the advent of computers, digital technology and, of course, the smartwatch, a mechanical watch has never lost its place in the heart of a true horophile. With that in mind, here at Jura Watches, we’ve compiled a simple and easy-to-read guide for those of you considering buying your first mechanical timepiece.

What Is a Mechanical Watch?

Some watches tick while others sweep. The mechanical watch is identified by the sweeping motion of its second hand, which gracefully travels across the dial of a watch smoothly and effortlessly. Mechanical watches can be either automatic or manual. While the latter requires you to wind the watch each day by hand, the automatic watch uses the energy created by the movement of your wrist to keep track of time.

On a simple level, the winding of a crown or the turning of a rotor (in an automatic) tightens a spring inside the watch. That mainspring is then responsible for slowly unwinding with the help of an escapement. The controlled unwinding of the mainspring is what provides energy to the watch. This technically complex system of tiny, intricate components provides the wearer with a glimpse into the past. It is what many a collector would describe as “the soul” of a watch.

The Appeal of the Mechanical Watch

There are many reasons why collectors are drawn to the appeal of the mechanical watch. The mechanical watch is deeply rooted in a fascinating world that straddles the line between artistry, history and expert engineering. Those who consider themselves experienced collectors love the mechanical watch for its meticulous architecture and the mastery behind every intricately crafted component. The modern man, on the other hand, may view true, unadulterated mechanical timekeeping as a rebellious act against the hyper-digital world in which we live today. Either way, nothing can beat the magnetic pull of the mechanical watch.

The heart of an automatic or hand-winding watch is an incredibly complex machine made up of tiny working parts that all dance in synchronisation with one another to keep track of time. This miniature architecture is nothing short of fascinating, offering a window into the skill and engineering of some of the world’s most respected names in the industry. Quite simply, mechanical watches are marvels of micro-engineering excellence, appealing to a vast audience, whether at an experienced or novice level.

The sheer ingenuity of the mechanical watch is magnified even more when you consider that these wrist-worn engines require no battery replacement, unlike those of a quartz-powered movement. In addition to serving as a visible piece of art on the wrist, mechanical watches are also associated with high-end luxury, often commanding a high price. Regardless of being worn as a status symbol, traditionally crafted wristwatches symbolise centuries of heritage and know-how. Their tangibility and longevity prove part of their irresistible appeal.

What to Consider Before Buying a Mechanical Watch

Now that we’ve looked at what a mechanical watch is and its appeal, here are some factors to consider before buying your first mechanical watch with us here at Jura Watches.

In-House or Third-Party Movement?

Intrinsically, the beauty of the mechanical watch is all about its engine, so it’s no surprise that collectors spend a great deal of time debating over a movement and scrutinising it. Some movements can be in-house. Brands like Oris, Breitling, Nomos, and IWC Schaffhausen produce their own movements independently, offering superior craftsmanship, innovation and exclusivity.

Other manufacturers will use third-party movements. If you’ve been researching mechanical watches for some time, you may be familiar with names such as ETA, Valjoux, Sellita and Miyota. These third-party movements, though not a result of in-house innovation, are still widely used by respected brands and offer affordable servicing and replacement options. Before starting, decide whether the idea of an in-house movement or a third-party movement appeals to you more.

Material Quality

As with any luxury lifestyle product you invest in, material quality matters. Not only do materials affect the aesthetics of a watch, but they also determine how well the watch will hold up on your wrist. Better materials = longer-lasting quality. Materials also affect the weight of a watch and its overall feel.

Before buying your first mechanical watch, consider whether you prefer the weight of a conventional stainless steel model or would like something more lightweight, such as a carbon or titanium case.

Case Size and Thickness

Case size and thickness are crucial factors to consider when selecting the right mechanical watch for you. Case sizes for men typically range from 38mm to 42mm on average, although smaller and larger alternatives are also available. Smaller-sized cases are more classic, while larger models convey a more modern feel.

Also, note that the movement inside a watch can sometimes determine the thickness of the case. Complication watches, for example, tend to be thicker in depth since they rely on a more complex movement.

Dial Designs

Regardless of whether this is your first mechanical watch or your one hundredth, dial design matters a lot. It’s the part of the watch you’ll be spending most time looking at, not to mention everyone else you meet and speak to in an average day.  If you prefer a classic, casual, and relaxed vibe, opt for a simple time and date watch. Think about where you prefer the date complication to sit on a watch and which shape of hands you like best, as well.

Consider how often you’ll be wearing your mechanical watch and what type of attire you’ll pair it with. The same can be said for watch straps. Do you need a classic leather band to go with a simple dress watch dial? Or will you be wearing your watch for outdoor sports and leisure? In that case, you’ll likely need a supple rubber band to complement a chronograph dial.

Conclusion

There are a few crucial things to think about before you buy your first mechanical watch. The first stage of the process is to research and understand what a mechanical watch is and whether it’s the right kind of wristwatch for you. Then, think about dial design, size and features. Once you have these essential features mapped out, all you need to do is browse our vast range of mechanical watches here at Jura Watches and contact our sales team on 01335 453453 or email us at help@jurawatches.co.uk for more information and guidance.