The Rich History of Panerai Watches

Delve into the archives with us here at Jura Watches as we explore the history of world-renowned watchmaker, Panerai

Ever wondered how the Panerai watch sitting on your wrist came to be such a highly coveted collectable? Read this article and you’ll be able to explain to your fellow watch enthusiasts the reasons why you choose Panerai over any other brand. The company’s rich history is commendable, not only for its influential role in dial legibility and luminous material manufacture but also for how the brand has transitioned through the ages, retaining its values while evolving as a watch manufacturer of modern times and of modern materials.

The Early Days

In 1860 in Florence, something very significant happened. A man named Giovanni Panerai followed his vision to convert a small premises into a workshop, sales room and school for watchmaking. The business played an integral role in the sale of Swiss watches in Italy during this time. Together, he and his son worked closely with Swiss contacts and the relationships that they had forged with some of the most influential names in the Swiss watchmaking industry. The ties the company made with Swiss suppliers at that time formed the foundations for what would eventually lend Panerai its outstanding reputation. The process of assembling and making Swiss watches in Florence was merely a profession at that point, but more a calling. It may explain why Panerai is often referred to as “art in motion”, since the brand is continually evolving with the times, creating innovative designs for modern-day life.

The saga of Panerai’s evolution is one of dedication, traditional know-how and ingenuity. During the 19th century, the company was now a busy hub of movement, case and part assembly. It soon became a place of research and development, where specialists began to look at innovating its own mechanics and fabricating components for use inside tool watches. Panerai became dedicated to creating watches that were not only functional but beautifully crafted too.

The Legendary Radiomir Is Born

Perhaps the most notable landmark in the history of Panerai watches is the arrival of the Radiomir watch. This pivotal chapter marked a turning point for the brand and a new era of superior visibility. The secret behind this important chapter was, of course, a radium-based paint named Radiomir. Its glow was like nothing ever seen before. The display served military divers with a guiding light to use when venturing deep down into the daring, dark depths of the sea. But the Radiomir watch should be recognised as much more than just its luminous technology alone. The functional tool was incredibly practical. It had a cushion-shaped case that made it incredibly durable when utilised for intense operations.

There was no doubt that Radium had opened up a new field of technology for the military, but Panerai had already established contracts with the Royal Italian Navy before then. The watchmaker was focussing on supplying submersible navigational tools and computing devices for the unit at the time when the Radiomir watch arrived. On a parallel plane, the development of the early dive watch was well underway. Rolex has developed the Oyster case and underwater breathing devices were surfacing. Panerai held the keys to a watch design that could meet both legibility and water-proof criteria.

The Radiomir watch arrived in the 1930s, featuring soldered-on wire lugs, a large bezel, a leather strap, a shatter-resistant crystal front, and a two-piece sandwich dial. Panerai’s combat wristwatch assisted Italian frogmen in manning all kinds of explosives from speedboats to limpet lines to torpedos. During the 1970s, Panerai underwent new management. As the first non-Panerai member to head up the brand, former Italian naval officer and engineer, Dino Zei guided the brand through a transitional period, pointing to more modern designs and pushing forward with its cutting-edge technology.

The Epoch-Defining Era of the Luminor Watch

The Luminor watch arrived much later in the Panerai story (1993 to be exact). It featured a distinctive crown protection bridge, which not only served as an aesthetical feature but as a practical advantage. Its innovative locking mechanism protected the crown from snagging and is still a hallmark seen in modern Panerai watches today. The brand also took the launch of the Luminor watch as an opportunity to improve the accuracy of its movements and, at this point, had already advanced in luminescent chemistry, replacing the radium-based dials of its Radiomir watch collection with a tritium-based material. This same material was used in the Luminor watch design. The soldered wire lugs were replaced by integrated lugs that were machined from one piece of metal and a new crown was also implemented. It still, however, retained a bold dial and cushion-shaped case, making it instantly identifiable for anyone who knew of Panerai watches before they came to the public market.

Panerai marked a significant milestone in its successful journey in the late 1990s when it released the Black Seal, paying homage to those earlier designs utilised by the Italian Navy.  New enthusiasts were now afforded a glimpse into the brand’s past. The design, with its cushion case, black legible dial and robust leather strap, echoed the company’s earlier military wristwatches perfectly. Over the years, new materials have been developed for the Black Seal collection and it still remains one of the company’s biggest sellers today.

Submerging the Submersible

The Submersible watch is one of the youngest developments from Panerai. It arrived under the Luminor watch collection in 1998 but has since acquired its very own category. It has become a cornerstone of the brand’s catalogue thanks to its superior water-resistant rating of 1000 meters. Panerai forges these cases from materials like titanium and ceramic, drawing from their strength, lightweight and scratch-resistant properties. In addition to this, the watchmaker has innovated its own material named Carbotech, which it uses for some of its Submersible designs. Panerai also equipped these Submersible watches with unidirectional rotating bezels that can assist the diver with a clear and easy way to measure elapsed time intuitively when underwater.

Winding Up

Panerai’s transition from the creator of a military tool watch to the innovator of a luxury watch icon is a testament to the brand’s unwavering dedication to quality craftsmanship and timekeeping perfection. It’s one of the reasons why there are very few true watch enthusiasts who can’t recall the identifiable look of a Panerai watch, whether that be from the Submersible, Radiomir or Luminor range. Long may that continue.

If you’d like more information on Panerai watches, you can check out the entire range here, or call and speak to a member of our Jura Watches sales team at 01335 453453 or email us a question at help@jurawatches.co.uk