| Automatic
Watch |
An automatic watch requires no
battery. The watch mainspring is wound automatically by a balance wheel which
rotates due to normal wrist motion whilst wearing the watch. There are 2 types of automatic watches i.e.
mechanical and automatic. Mechanical
watches have to be wound up and automatic watches work on the movement of the
wrist. |
| Bezel |
This
is the ring around the case which holds the crystal of a watch to the case of
the watch. |
| Bi-Directional Rotating Bezel |
A
bezel that can be rotated either clockwise or anticlockwise. |
| Buckle |
The traditional loop and pin
buckle is called a 'buckle'. A hinged fold-over style metal clasp that opens
and closes easily, allowing the watch to be placed on the wrist. |
| Calendar |
A
feature that shows the date, and often the day of the week and month. Most
calendar watches show the information digitally through an aperture on the
watch face. If watches have perpetual
calendars this will mean that the date will automatically change at the end
of the month. Some chronograph watches show the information on
sub-dials on the watch face. |
| Calibre |
The mechanism inside the watch
that tells the quality of the watch movement. |
| Case |
A case of a watch is the primary
housing for the internal watch movement. |
| Case
back |
The
bottom of the watch case that can be opened for access to the watch movement
for repair or battery change. Some
watches have a sapphire glass backing which allows you to see the working
mechanism of the watch. |
| Chronograph |
This is a watch with a variety
of extra features displayed on sub-dials.
This can include hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve, date and moon
phase. |
| Chronometer |
This is a watch which has been
measured for accuracy and tested for precision by an official testing
institute. |
| Complication |
An additional function other
than basic timekeeping of the hours, minutes, and seconds. Certain features
such as automatic winding or date are considered complications. The main
complications are power reserve, moon phase, GMT, and full calendars. Great complications
are split second chronographs, perpetual calendars, tourbillons, and minute
repeaters. |
| COSC |
This is the Swiss Official
Chronometer Testing Institute that will certify the official chronometer
status of a watch. |
| Crown |
The
'Crown' is known better as the adjustment dial on the watch. The crown is
used to adjust the time, date and for winding up the watch. |
| Crystal |
The
'crystal' is the transparent cover
over the dial. The crystals can either be made from resin, minerals or
sapphires. |
| Date
Window |
A small opening in the dial
through which the date is displayed. |
| Deployment
Buckle |
The deployment buckle is a clasp
that folds nicely in to the strap for elegancy. |
| Dial |
The 'dial' is
the face of the watch showing the time. |
| Diving
Watch |
A watch that is at least 200M
water resistant. Has a one way rotating bezel and a screw-on crown and back.
Some watches have a helium escape button to release the pressure after the
diving
|
| Escapement |
Set of parts (escape wheel, lever, roller) which converts the
rotary motion of the train into to-and-fro motion (the balance). |
| End of
Battery Life Indicator (EOL) |
The EOL indicates when it is
time to replace the existing battery. Different manufacturers use different
methods to indicate a low battery, i.e. if a second hand usually sweeps, when
the battery is low it will begin to tick. |
| Finishing |
The finishing of watches come in
three types of finishing's, a polished surface, a brushed finish and a gold
plated finish. |
| Fly-Back
Hand (Retrograde Date Hand) |
Usually, a hand indicating a
date or time against a scale and then 'flies back' to catch up with to
another date or time. For example, a hand that 'flies back' to the beginning
of the month after reaching the 28th, 29th, 30th, or 31st day of the month. |
| Geneva
Stripes |
A
form of decoration in higher grade watch movements which look like a pattern
on the face of the watch. |
| Grand Complication |
A Grand Complication is a combination of complications but it must have a perpetual calendar with or without moonphase indication), a split-second flyback chronograph and a minute repeater. Manufactures quite often include many other complications as well. |
| Horological |
The art of making a Timepiece. |
| Jewel |
In watch making, a synthetic
ruby used for making low friction bearing in which the delicate pivots of the
movement wheels run in. In some deluxe watches, sometimes sapphires or
garnets are used. Expensive watch movements are jeweled from the barrel to the
balance, and all automatic work, date and complication movements are expected
to be jeweled. |
| Luminous |
The hour markers and/or hands
have a feature coating of a glow in the dark which will illuminates in the
dark so you can tell the time where there is insufficient light. |
| Manufacture |
A French term for a watch
factory which itself produces the components needed for the manufacture of
watches.
|
| Mechanical
Automatic Wind |
A watch which has mechanical
moving parts and winds its mainspring automatically using an internal rotor
system. |
| Mechanical
Manual Wind |
A watch which has mechanical
moving parts and requires its mainspring to be manually wound. |
| Moon-Phase
Calendar |
On some watches, the display of
the evolution of the lunar cycle: rising, full or waning moon. |
| Movement |
This is the internal mechanism
of a watch. Assembly of parts and main components such as the mainspring,
balance assembly, escapement, train of wheels, setting and winding . |
| Perpetual
Calendar |
A complication or function of a
watch which displays correctly without adjustment, the day, date and month,
and can also account for leap year cycles. |
| Power
Reserve Indicator |
A 'Power Reserve Indicator'
shows the power resource of a mechanical movement watch. |
| PVD
(Physical Vapour Deposition) |
A method of coating thin watch
cases by integrating titanium particles and then depositing gold for color.
(Usually comes in black finish) |
| Quartz |
This is a watch with a battery-powered mechanism. |
| Retrograde |
This is a pointer hand on a
watch dial which returns to zero at the end of a prescribed period i.e.
days/months. For example a watch may have a retrograde date, meaning that the hand moves up a scale a
day at a time, pointing to the current date, when it reaches 31 it will
spring back to 1. |
| Rotor |
In automatic winding mechanisms,
an unbalanced, semicircular metal turns freely in both directions winding the
mainspring. |
| Sapphire
Crystal |
A Sapphire Crystal is a
synthetic watch crystal that is extremely hard and very scratch resistant. |
| Skeleton
Movement |
Movement
on a watch where the plates have been removed or trimmed so that you can see
the gears and other parts. |
| Skeleton
Watch |
Crystal on the front
and back. |
| Waterproof |
No watch can be 100% waterproof. |
| Water
Resistant |
Describes a watch case designed
to prevent water from entering. |
| Tachometer
(Tachymeter) |
A watch or stop watch used for
the measurement of speed. It measures
speed in kilometers per hour based on 1000m distance. |
| Tourbillon |
This type of watch is a complex
piece of micro-engineering which results in the escapement of a watch
rotating on its own axis; the aim is to cancel out the variations in running
regularity which can be caused by the watch being in different positions; (a
watch may gain in one position yet lose in another). |