Oris - NEW Watch - Big Crown Pointer Date Bronze 2019 Unveiled
Monday - 06 January 2020
Adding a silver lining (or perhaps we should say bronze) to an already exciting year, Oris recently revealed its brand new Big Crown Pointer Date. Jura Watches’ in-house writer, Steve Ashby, takes a look up close at one of the most talked about timepieces of 2019.
It’s no secret that Oris produces one of the most diverse ranges of watches in the horological spectrum, unrivalled by many of its competitors, with timepieces designed for daily wear, under water exploration or even built to aid aviation activities. This unparalleled level of design isn’t only present in the firm’s current line of watches, but it also extends far back into the brand’s history and, in recent years, it hasn’t been uncommon for Oris to reach into that pocket of history for inspiration.
Such is the case for their new Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date. This watch draws on a number of accomplishments from Oris’ rich heritage, bringing an all new piece to its existing line of 1938 Big Crown pilot’s watches.
The watch’s closest relative would be the Green-dial Oris Anniversary Edition, which celebrated 80 years of the Big Crown Pointer Date design, released in 2018. Like the anniversary watch, Oris’ new design features the same stunning 40mm bronze case and screw-in crown, complete with elegantly curved lugs, fluted coin-edge bezel and domed sapphire crystal – only with one big difference.
The case has been chemically treated using a lacquer which creates a unique and dramatic patina finish on every piece. The lacquer also helps the bronze to retain its lifespan, preventing the patina from overwhelming the piece over time. The case is capable of up to 5 bar water resistance, though for the purpose of wanting to protect the bronze materials, I personally would consider it a safety blanket for a piece that should otherwise remain dry.
Oris has been a contender in the market of bronze watches for some time, with a particularly notable piece being the Carl Brashear limited edition, released in 2016 and then re-released with a chronograph in 2018. However, unlike all of its predecessors, the new Big Crown Pointer Date features a dial which has also been crafted from bronze.
Just like the outer case, the bronze dial has also been chemically treated, imbuing each watch with a beautifully unique look which will become more apparent as it ages. Oris hopes that this unique take on the bronze watch trend will embody the brand’s industrial philosophy and value of mechanical watches, while also symbolising the revival of the mechanical watch industry as a whole.
The bronze dial has been accented with gold plated cathedral-style hands and painted Arabic numerals and minute markers which have been applied with Super-LumiNova. Oris’ date wheel surrounds the dial, with a gold-plated hand used as the complication’s indicator. The hand has been embellished with a red tip, which is the only lavish of colour on the dial; It’s a small touch, but one that adds to the overall aesthetic of the piece nicely.
The watch is powered by a modified Sellita SW-200 movement, referred to by Oris as the Calibre 754. Equipped with the brand’s signature red rotor, the 26-jewel movement operates at 28,800 vph and, on a full wind, will keep time accurately off the wrist for 38-hours before needing to be rewound. Oris has also fitted the bronze case with a stainless steel and mineral glass caseback, so the movement itself can be seen in full glory from the rear of the watch.
Lending itself to the warm bronze tones perfectly, the strap on the Oris Bronze Big Crown Pointer Date has been produced using textured brown chamois deer leather, while a bronze pin-buckle completes the overall look.
Because of the nature of the piece, specifically with its chemically treated bronze case and dial, you might expect to pay a bit of a premium on the price, but actually you would be delightfully proven wrong. The watch retails at £1,500.00, which is the same price as the aforementioned 1938 Anniversary piece or Oris’ Movember special edition watches. For me, the piece is a bargain.
Closing Remarks
I have long been a fan of Oris watches and indeed, pilot’s watches in general so the watch was always going to be an easy win for me. Throw the bronze case and dial into the mix and you’ve got something that really catches my eye.
The price is also unbelievably competitive. If I am being honest, I expected to see the watch in the region of £1,800 - £2,000, so it certainly scores high with regards to getting good value for money.
The watch isn’t limited edition, but that doesn't hinder its intense factor for desirability. Of course, being limited edition is normally something to shout about, but this watch doesn’t need it. Because of the bronze materials used and Oris’ lacquering technique, every piece is a one off – and for me it is as good as being limited edition in its own right. What more could you want?
Technical Specification
Model: Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date
Reference: 01 754 7741 3166-07 5 20 74BR
Case: 40mm Bronze case; fluted bezel; screw-down crown; domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating; steel caseback with mineral glass crystal; 50m water-resistant
Functions: - hours, minutes, seconds, date by hand
Movement: Oris Calibre 754, based on Sellita SW-200; Automatic with signature central red rotor - 28,800 vibrations/hour - 38 hours power reserve
Strap: brown chamois deer leather with bronze pin buckle
Price: £1,500 (RRP correct as at 05.12.2019)
